Text: Dariga Masenova In November, some models of the last cruise collection will appear in the Chanel brand boutiques. EACH OF THEM IS THE RESULT OF HELPY HANDMADE OF MULTIPLE KNOWN FRENCH ATELIERS.
The recognized genius of the fashion world, Karl Lagerfeld is in constant search of inspiration that he draws from the diverse cultures of our planet. The 2015-2016 Chanel cruise collection was moved to the center of Seoul, the largest neofuturistic building created by Zaha Hadid, the Dongdaemun Design Plaza. And the design of the models of the new collection is his own interpretation of the hanbok - the national costume of the people of Korea.
One of the most striking models of this cruise collection, shown at the show, is a hanbok dress made of black silk and organza, embroidered with mother-of-pearl sequins, rhombuses and decorated with three brooches - branded camellias created for Chanel by Montex studio masters. The dress comes with a cape of light black organza, which can be removed.
Karl Lagerfeld is famous for being fast and professional. Chanel House completely trusts him with his style, so any image he creates, transferred to paper in the form of a sketch, will somehow be embodied in physical form, whether it be a dress, handbag or accessory. As soon as the studio where the designer works, approves the silhouette, further instructions are passed on to the masters of the Lesage atelier. They begin to work on the design of the model on tracing paper in accordance with the pattern provided to them by the head studio of Chanel.
Diamond-shaped patterns are embroidered on silk using the Luneville technique: craftsmen work with the inside of the fabric, holding the hook with one hand, and moving the material under the hoop with the other. The diamond-shaped pattern includes more than 3000 sequins and flowers in the center of each rhombus, consisting of mother of pearl, particles of glass, glass beads and large crystals. This stage of work on the dress takes about 762 hours.
After completing the work of the Lesage workshop, embroidered fabric is sent to the Chanel studio so that the seamstresses can finish the work on the silhouette. They literally “assemble” the dress in pieces, and then sew a wrap for it, which is part of the original design.
The dress is tried on a wooden mannequin to assess the accuracy of the silhouette and check whether all the proportions are made in accordance with the requirements of Karl Lagerfeld. After that, the work of three ateliers, one creative head and dozens of golden hands was completed.
